Anycubic ultrabase cleaning reddit. Expand user menu Open settings menu.

Anycubic ultrabase cleaning reddit Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. I just lower the build platform to around 10mm over the resin level and use that as an extra light blocker. Heating up the bed to this temperature took at least 15 minutes and the bed couldn't hold the temperature at all, it fell down to 100°C. Actually, after several prints, I am not able to get completely rid of it. Bought a mega S and a chiron. 13 votes, 32 comments. Additionally I also installed a plugin called "Z-offset" into Cura, and set the Z-offset to -0. This is a printer that has both great features, but also issues specific to this make and model, so please only post in regards to this printer or something related to this printer (ex: the recommended slicer for the Anycubic Kossel is Cura, so any Cura tips would be helpful to this community). PETG seems to hurt the Ulrabase print bed. ANYCUBIC Upgraded New Prusa I3--Ultrabase Version I can't really find much more about it - they don't list it on their website any more. This doesn't affect its adhesion. The og design is not the best. After leveling, I printed a calibration cube with absolutely no issues (I love how it literally just pops off the plate at 35°C). is it ok to clean it with soap and water and isopropyl alchohol? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment I asked Anycubic support how best to clean my (Chiron) Ultrabase and they told me to just wipe with a cloth dampened with plain water. Even if I did completely swap out my bed for the the Anycubic ultrabase the Anycubic website says the max temp for the ultrabase is 120 which only helps me a little. I need a tool to remove them after cooldown. I have to print with brims otherwise my prints fail and even with brims my prints have started failing. The #1 Reddit source for news, information, and discussion about modern board games and board game culture. 🚗 🇮🇳 Auto enthusiasts discuss sedans, SUVs, hatchbacks, motor racing etc in Car India scene here on reddit. I have the rare Anycubic 4Max (semi closed model). No fix :( Ran out of time tonight, will try some 1500 grit tomorrow after work. Stuff isn’t sticking anymore like it used to. - Support "Pe Cleaner is a Chinese term, just a cleaner, you only need to use a small amount of water or alcohol to clean the Ultrabase" I've seen this question come up a few times on this forum and others. I'm pretty sure the bed is warped and will be too close to the nozzle. Please just keep all posts clean so that even children can use this site with their Aquila 3d printers. Rods should need cleaning when oil/grease begins to discolor, or given light care after a consistent long print (print that goes longer than 12 hours). The ESP32 series employs either a Tensilica Xtensa LX6, Xtensa LX7 or a RiscV processor, and both dual-core and single-core variations are available. My Genius is pretty new but I have somehow problems with PETG, a Glue stick helped me out. Don't know how well this would work in this case, you'd probably have to completely melt the bottom to get it off, because the surface on the photo is Anycubic Ultrabase which is designed to have better adhesion when heated up, but make prints pop right off when cooled I emailed anycubic support and they offered to send me a new one, if I posted a positive review. The problem is, is a 1ohm resistor so that means it's going to draw 24 amps by itself when it is running (I= V/R). it could be the abs. The one thing I read when mine did this was to dilute the alcohol you use to clean it to 50% instead of 98% our 70%. The (un)official home of #teampixel and the #madebygoogle lineup on Reddit. No that's not glue, it's thermal paste and it's not meant to hold the glass bed to the aluminum plate, the clips with the little Allen screws do that, it's just op is missing one. And then before each print clean it again with Isopronal. My brother's Anycubic Predator has ultrabase, and it is kinda nice, but I still prefer a removable flexible build plate. I got an Anycubic Ultrabase recently. Emphasis on Frequently. On my Mega Zero adhesion issues has been 5% dirty bed and 95% bed leveling. Hi I bought my i3 mega a few months and i've been having issues with bed adhesion. Welcome to the subreddit for the Anycubic Kossel, Delta style 3D Printer. when it's new, it's magic. if its pla heat the bed up to 65 or so instead of 60. I'm wondering if anyone has had success with PETG on this surface. However, if I leave it a few days or a week it will spontaneously start working again. I haven't tried it yet but I think a dual-sided design like this should fix the issue. I have to use a chisel and small hammer sometimes to remove my prints haha! Probably will have to unlearn and relearn with the Mini+, hope it won't be too much of an uphill journey! All the best to you! Cheers! Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Isopropyl alcohol works a treat. It's almost like a film. After that refrain from touching the surface directly. Hello, Bought a 4Max Pro from the official store last week and completed around 10 prints on it over the weekend. That didn't sit right with me. If cleaning doesn’t help it’s time to sand it down. Clean it throughout, let it foam. close the windows and the doors of the room. Previously was struggling with ABS/ABS+ and tried many things including the glue stick but the bottom always waps and lifts up. The Voxelab Aquila users use acetone all the time, but I've been wondering (just because I have so much of it just in case), if it'd be safe to use on my Anycubic Chiron bed, which is also glass just like the Aquila. It sure acts like Ultrabase. This is what it looks like where it peeled off. Printed on it, great first layer. Log In / Sign Up I'm pretty sure Anycubic makes the ultrabase beds, although I know they do sell to other manufacturers for use on other printers. Posted by u/bbsan2k - 8 votes and 18 comments Expand user menu Open settings menu. No more than 60% alcohol with water(or cleanser+water) to clean the ultrabase, applied gently with a microfibre cloth on A COLD BASE In my experience the only material I have to use a tool to remove is silk pla which sticks like poo to a blanket. If it's heated, it gets grippy. Use a drop of unscented dish soap in clean warm water. If your nozzle was too low then its sorta embedded in the bed and will eventually wear away. To “cure” the paper towel and IPA wipe after use i bought a UV light which is mounted next to my wash & cure; i put this stuff under the lamp and turn it on while i’m curing my prints in the wash& cure. This is basically an Anycubic Ultrabase, a coated plate that already has superb adhesion while at 60°C (and that just lets prints pop off at 40°C). Thank you for your effort to help me! Hi, I do that. general tip: use rafts or skirts/brims on tall but thin parts. Clean the bed. I decided I would add the 220 x 220 Ultrabase heated bed Anycubic offers, bought it on eBay for $23 shipped. OP has the Creality Glass plate. They said, "We recommend using a ratio of 3:7". You won't get the ultrabase finish anymore but it's still usable as a glass bed. Reply If you like my past self think: cleaning the print bed is not so important, think again! I went to the drug store, bought cleaning alcohol (1L for less then 3€) and used it to clean my ultrabase after 1. Hey, since the Artillery’s bed are exact the same like anycubic ultrabase you can search for cleaning a ultrabase. Cleaning your Ultrabase with isopropanol is fine and yes, it is normal for the surface to become smoother after printing on it. Had several issues with the chiron and even chipped the ultrabase After a couple of weeks (my own fault). Hello, Bought a 4Max Pro from the Anycubic official site last week and completed around 10 prints on it over the weekend. Anycubic asked me for a test print, Fotos and Videos and After that Send me spare parts and even a completely new ultrabase with heatbed (50 to 70 bucks). I've been noticing on my most recent print that there was a scratching noise when the extruder tip went over around the center of the bed. This should be your last call tho, as it will mess up the first layer. The part coolers were turned off of course. Silk PLA prints were notoriously bad on the Ultrabase for me but are so easy to remove on the flex plate. Anycubic i3 Mega S heated bed - glass replacement I've had my printer since January 2021 and have gone through a lot of learning curves. Usally the Ultrabase sticks really good but you should clean you Printsurface initially with a cleaning agent and afterwards with 99% isopronanol. ESP32 is a series of low cost, low power system on a chip microcontrollers with integrated Wi-Fi and dual-mode Bluetooth. The thing is (was) beautiful and I love it, but in such a short time, due to some Hall sensor leveling issues, I think I've scratched it beyond repair. I almost printed something before reading this. The thing I love the most is the bed. Discuss Cars in India and other automobile news here. Posted by u/The_Lux83 - 2 votes and 6 comments Posted by u/Nullsectorash - 2 votes and 22 comments This is what I do. I wash them very well in two different ethanol containers for a few minutes each. Anycubic seem to hide that information in the listing text for the bed. Get support, learn new information, and hang out in the subreddit dedicated to Pixel, Nest, Chromecast, the Assistant, and a few more things from Google. Sorry for late reply I've been busy. I've have the printer 4 years, the ultrabase still looks perfect and works great. If it still doesn't like to stick, sand the ultrabase with 600 grit paper lightly and then clean again with IPA. you can offset Z a bit closer to the bed. BTW I found ultrabase a good bed. However if you use paper and a fresh area of paper each time it is on of the most consistent commodity products that we have available. Rather adjust the nozzle a tiny bit closer before you put other crap on your bed (I also own and use a AnyCubic Mega Ultrabase) Paper isn't that bad. Over the years my bed adhesion got worse and worse even though cleaning it before every print. I've done so on my second bed and it's lasted six months with no issues so far. I've left the resin in the printer for weeks between prints. (I have an Anycubic Mega S) Hi, I recently bought an Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro for Christmas to do with my young sons. Once I switched to pure glass instead of the Anycubic glass, my bed adhesion was garbage with this method. Dedicated to the most glorious house cleaning device, known simply as the Vacuum Cleaner. I stumbled upon AnyCubic and from the looks of it, the products look really high quality, while also being fairly cost-efficient. i wanna clean my anycubic ultabase bed but i don't wanna mess it up. Then somebody told me about the dish soap trick and I haven’t used isopropyl for my prints after that. Adhesion seems to be good though. No amount of cleaning with various chemicals The bed still looked very clean before, it was just that I had adhesion issues. The status indicator says the target temperature is set, but nothing happens and the red light you can see under the print bed doesn't come on. I'd occasionally clean it with alcohol and avoid touching it. I thought I'd leave the answer in case someone finds this in a Google search: Anycubic told me I didn't have to modify anything for the 400mm x 400mm Ultrabase (for Chiron) bed, it will just run on 24V as is. Last night, I started a print and went to do other things. It sticks so well and just pops right off and with just a dab of rubbing alcohol it's stayed like new even after all these months. 70% works fine too. I expected it to be a straight swap for the unheated bet, it isn't even close. Posted by u/Matthi_26 - 2 votes and 15 comments Cleaning and maintenance of the ultrabase. On my CR10S PLA will not stick to the base anymore at all. I also print the first layer at like 20-30 mm/s just to make sure it sticks. For months I was having successful prints with my i3 Mega using the Ultrabase. I was genuinely surprised when I found AnyCubic because I don't see it getting recommended a lot. Always had trouble getting pla off my ultrabase. Share your own experiences and learn from others in a friendly and supportive environment. basically the title. 0. Flip it so you can still use the other side. The aluminum bed the Mega Zero comes with has the mounting bolts inset about an inch from the sides, the Ultrabase is inset about 10mm. Upon having the remove my first ever print, my trusty putty knife scuffed it With the glue method, I never had to worry about the knife edge doing any damage, I never wait for a cool down, I just chisel away like a mad man. Never use acetone, this kills the Ultrabase. So when that's washing, I can start my printer again and let the enite build plate dry once it done washing. I've tried the buildtak surface but I actually found that to be worse. It should be fine, as long as you clean the bed with a bit of alcohol before each print. Then I tried to print a ABS temp tower at 105°C bed temperature and it didn't stick to the Ultrabase. On the other hand, I have an Anycubic Chiron with the Ultrabase print bed and I've cleaned that thing exactly zero times since I bought it a Hi, Due to a series of newbie screw-ups I ended up having a couple of dents on the heatbed. Coming from the Anycubic ultrabase, I rarely had issues with print adhesion, that thing sticks like something else. Clean the bed and make sure nozzle is closer. Apparently the Ultrabase lettering wasn't added to the bed until more recent models. Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. Just wondering if i can wipe the removeable bed with alcohol or not. if you look around on the internet you can see there are a few other people that had this happen. I've had the ultrabase for a week and have done maybe 15 prints on it, while my other one I've had for over a year and have done hundreds of prints on, and has never had anything even remotely close happen. We cover all vacuums old to new, and are eager to help you find a part or fix a broken machine. The Genius uses a coated glass base similar to the Anycubic Ultrabase. I clean the build plate with a paper towel, then an IPA wipe; no need to cure it, because there is nothing to cure—it is totally clean. So I got the ultrabase because it seemed to get a fairly good write up, can I just plug it in and use it (up to 110 degrees Celsius not the 400 degrees max) or do I have to do some other stuff first. the bed seems to be very sensitive to being clean btw. I clean my ultrabase after every few prints with 99% IPA. Either settings or the ultrabase itself. I was previously using some Phrozen water washable, which worked great. I bought an i3 Mega on Amazon a few weeks ago, sold as with Ultrabase, but the bed only showed the logo and ANYCUBIC. It's been great and we've got about 70 hours on it. What's the proper procedure for using the To start im very new at printing and im trying to learn the ins and outs of the machine. Try double checking the "600", but I have often read that if cleaning stops working sandpaper is the way to go. If you’re worried or if adhesion starts to become a problem, you may want to take Anycubic’s advice and give it a quick scrub with some 300 to 600 grit sandpaper. It sticks too well and is hard to get anything off and then it will not stick at all afterwards either and is super hard to clean. Printer details. (Probably from the hot end that I had to replace. Look for surfactants in the dish soap. Have had 3 ultrabase in 3 different printers and never seen the problem before. nothing sticks to it now had to spray it with hairspray and it still doesn't stick as well as normal glass + hairspray. Clean it really good. I love the Ultrabase on my Anycubic and I kinda assumed that the original Creality glass bed has an equal quality. N Remove the build surface, clean the bed with alcohol, peel the adhesive backing from the Ultrabase, and apply it directly to the bed. Yep $20-$30 depending on the color. Turns out my issues were a combination of bad nozzle height and poor adhesive (magigoo solved this, and tape on the z-axis solved height issue). I've had the anycubic ultrabase for a couple weeks now (about 30 prints maybe) and have not had a single print come loose. building and using this one has been a really fun learning experience) From what I had read regarding the fire hazard possibility, and due to my lack of experience in soldering I was already looking for a replacement with already soldered wires ( or at Hey gang, I got an Anycubic i3 Mega about a week ago, it's my first printer but I've watched as many videos as I could find about troubleshooting… Hey all! Just got the Anycubic Vyper and I'm really enjoying it so far. clean it with water, and mix a PVA/water solution and let it dry on it Expand user menu Open settings menu. NOTE: Discussion of other cleaning products (mops, brooms, shampooers, etc. 05) to get a better stick and printing with a brim for more surface grip. If you try and scrub it you tend to take off the micro coating they have. I’d recommend around 500 grit. Regarding the ultrabase: I usually clean my ultrabase with brake cleaner which is mostly isopropyl alcohol and doesn't contain acetone. With my Method i achieved a good first layer with 1 layer calibration squares with the first try. Make sure you don’t touch the bed again after cleaning it or you will get oils from your hand on the bed and you’ll be back to square one again. What can I say the prints just won't come off that base. Feb 10, 2022 · Isopropyl alcohol works a treat. Previous to the Wham Bam I had to use Prevailent T-80 adhesive with my ultrabase on most prints after the ultrabase effect wore off. It is a anycubic ultrabase glass bed. This is with PETG, bed temp at 80. Would like to make it look clean again. So, I got a fancy new AnyCubic UltraBase for my Monoprice Maker Select v2. I have been getting great prints with the AnyCubic grey resin, but a week ago the grey resin started to not stick to the build plate, just like that, it started to stick to the FEP and not the build plate or delivering half prints like in the images, I tried: Scratch the build plate a bit and be sure it was clean after every failed print Update: Tried cleaning with dish soap & warm water, rinsed & let air dry. Sometimes you might need glue or hairspray. glue stick, hairspray, not only helps things to stick but lengthens the life of the coating. However recent prints are getting stuck on the extruder which then drags them around. Came back to check and smelled something that was like burning plastic. comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Enough is enough, so I bought a glass bed this time. It warps up on both ends if I try to print something long. Posted by u/moonomaly - 5 votes and 10 comments If not, would anyone recommend buying a third party magnetic PEI bed or should I just buy a replacement Anycubic Ultrabase. The marks on the bed that I have now (see photo) can’t be washed off with water, even with dish soap. Unofficial, not affiliated with Anycubic. It took over a week to get an answer, but the reply said yes, it was. General suggestions I've seen have been to clean a 3D printer's bed with alcohol semi-frequently. Also the print will sometimes break… You all sound like you don't own an Anycubic printer. Usually I see the SW-X1, however the QC has totally taken a nose-dive recently. Jul 4, 2018 · Ultrabase should only really need cleaning if a print did not come off cleanly (less is more). I do take the print out in the balcony, but I don't have the printer open an VAT exposed longer than necessary (a couple of seconds really) and try and have as much shade on the VAT. I'm impatient and don't want to wait for the bed to cool. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks. Apr 18, 2023 · To clean the cloudy fep film and dirty tank after a print failure, we need to use a funnel to filter the remaining resin, followed by cleaning the resin vat and FEP film with isopropyl alcohol. The prints come out still covered in liquid resin. If it needs more than that, they explained that it's OK to use a low-concentration of 99% pure alcohol and distilled water. Edit 2: just for anyone in the same position, I found an anycubic video recommending sanding with 400 grit wet and dry. As in, if a print starts with plastic gobbed on the side of the nozzle, straight away there's only 1/2 chance it'll finish properly. I print on the balcony, I'm not sure how much UV could get through so I always cover it with the box my Mono SE came in. Also make sure your bed is level and your Z gap (extruded nozzle) is properly set. Mine Ultrabase had came without protective film so I think it might collected some dust while been in the box. Sep 21, 2018 · I have an ultrabase and what has worked for me when printing petg, is cleaning the bed with alcohol, baby stepping the starting height down a bit (-0. The knob is fine, and the bed is fine. 1 yesterday (only took 21 days to deliver!) and it went on without a hitch. Voron uses 1 piece of high precision cast aluminium plate and does not suffer from that. I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and am having an issue with an ultrabase in a CR10S. You can see in the image, the gloss is completely gone in specific patterns. After trying everything I could and eventually having to basically cut the last piece off the bed, I just said to hell with it and put a magnetic pei sheet on. I was wondering, is it possible (and advisable) to use something like PEI on the top of the Ultrabase? I don't want to replace it. I clean mine before every print with a paper towel and a little Isopropyl Alcohol. Join the CleaningTips community for helpful tips and advice on keeping your living spaces clean and organized. Adhesion is great for PETG, PLA, TPU. use masking tape before printing PETG. Feb 10, 2022 · Posted by u/Matthi_26 - 2 votes and 15 comments Cleaning and maintenance of the ultrabase. The heatbreak is 26mm long end to end, it has a fitting type connector that is 6mm in diameter that goes 18mm deep into the heatsink and is held by two little grub screws. but then, after not much time/prints, and always religiously waiting for it to cool and clean it with IPA, it started to not stick anymore. Ultrabase is nice but can be damaged. Basically, my AnyCubic i3 Mega printer keeps failing to heat up the Ultrabase print bed. Never had any trouble with petg - just popped right off. I got extra build plates. Looking at the firmware updates for the Anycubic ultrabase it looks like it also uses a 100k thermistor. If that's the case, you might want to get in touch with your seller / Anycubic support and request a new Ultrabase. ) is welcome here as well. I always extrude and clear the nozzle between prints. A layer of something, e. One thing i noticed, if you clean the heatbed out cold, the ultrabase is rather smooth. After that you may need to adjust your slicer settings to get the proper feed and temperature. Adhesion is worlds better now with good adhesion on pure glass and very strong adhesion on the Anycubic The only problems with adhesion I've had on my Anycubic i3 mega have been caused by a dirty print bed - especially finger grease. Dude I wouldn't mess up my ultrabase with a glue stick o. Any additive, like glue stick, or hairspray destroys or at least negatively affects the adhesion. This. Tried the tighten the stuck screw trick and heated bed to 100C, that released the print. Log In / Sign Up; Advertise on Reddit Yup. Then clean with a paper towel and clean again with a little bit of IPA. O I always printed PETG at 55° on mine and never needed anything else than a wipe with acetone before print (water should also work). Not even on the Anycubic beds. 15. Wipe it off frequently with a cotton rag. (Reply time :1 working day) Please click this link to submit your ticket: After-sales Ticket Submission Page. I've had my Anycubic i3 for about a year and have loved it. Based on all the PETG articles and forum threads I've seen, I'm led to believe that I should be able to get PETG to work with no warping and no archaic glue stick, adhesives, or voodoo. Any automobile that moves on four wheels can be discussed here. Maybe 99% IPA would help with that? I guess I’ll just try. Emailed tech support about it. Haven’t tried ABS yet. Came back to check and smelled something odd, like something was bu Everytime after I print objects with a brim, it is an absolute nightmare to get all of it off. it sticks very well, i was really happy. For the week the ultrabase worked adhesion was amazing and prints popped right off so I understand wanting that but I print almost 24/7 and the anycubic products I've tried just couldn't keep up. With that plugin its easier to try different distances quickly. They are built like complete tanks and have only barely discernable micro scratches on them from being used heavily. Fill it in with a filler. 5 months of use. PLA had stuck really hard, heated to 60C then fully cooled. Join our community! Come discuss games like Codenames, Wingspan, Terra Mystica, and all your other favorite games! I've tried everything. - - - If you are new here, PLEASE see the sticky post - It has a lot of very helpful information to help you get started 3d printing with your Voxelab Aquila. . So I decided hell let's just upgrade to a glass bed bc I'll need it when I upgrade my hot end later anyway. Make sure you properly dispose the waste resin and cleaning tools, and the liquid resin should be fully cured before disposal. Until I uppped temperature to 245C/105C in an enclosure it prints perfectly and everything's clean. Which also happened to the ultrabase on the i3 mega. I just started trying to use the machine and after leveling the bed with a sheet of paper i try to print a level test. Regularly check my levelling, clean with isopropyl alcohol before any big/long prints like this, and the Ultrabase isn't supposed to need extra adhesives Reply reply More replies c-j-walsh I only clean the vat after a print failure, or if I find scraps when mixing the resin with the spatula before a print. Printer: Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus with Ultrabase Hotend: E3D v6 clone from gulf coast robotics with generic titanium heartbreak Hotend temp: Tried full range, up to 260 for PETG Bed temp: I've gone up to 70C, which is reading as 80C on my laser thermometer I tried cleaning with iso like normal, and it suddenly stopped sticking. Me fighting to remove my test print from the totally cooled build plate taught me something else (for comparison: there is basically no sticking once the Ultrabase cooled down). Forget IPA for now. Anything I should know about AnyCubic? Apperantly 600 grit sandpaper works on the ultrabase. Reply reply To be honest, cleaning the residual glue off of the bed is pain in the ass. Aug 13, 2022 · I clean my ultrabase after every few prints with 99% IPA. Smooth and clean on one side and a bit blobby and unprecise on the other side. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. Posted by u/Legal_Collection9799 - 4 votes and 6 comments Cleaning Ultrabase with alcohol. I fixed that issue by sanding the ultrabase a bit with scotch brite. See my reply below, on how it got resolved. I've had a lot of trouble getting the level right but have finally found a tight tolerance works best. I had that same printer before and I would go over it with an alcohol wipe, then a wet wipe, then a dry paper towel, and I did that before almost every print. I have two other anycubic printers using ultrabase with no issues and I clean the ultrabase after every print with Isopropyl alcohol 70%. Don't use a scraper or scrubber to clean it, just a paper towel should be fine. I have my suspicions that it may be a warped heat bed, as the corners have been calibrated correctly and I use the auto-leveler frequently, but I'd like to make sure this is the issue before contacting Anycubic's customer support to get a replacement bed. as abs shrinks way more than pla, just the shrinking from natural cooling could have caused enough stress on the coating to rip it off literally while the adhesion was still strong due to heat. However, after trying different brands of ABS I found that some brands… I clean my ultrabase with the heatbed at 50°c and isopropyl alcohol. 18K subscribers in the anycubic community. Should I take this anycubic back and go for the Monoprice Maker select plus or should I go to anycubic and raise my price for a positive review, maybe I can get enough parts for a new printer Anyone had success cleaning the Eco resin with washing-up liquid like the Anycubic web page says? Isn't working for me at all, using a Wash&Cure 2. After I cleaned out the dust, I noticed part of the ultrabase just peeled off. can't speak about pei, but ultrabase sucks. I'm using clips at the moment because my bed is warped but I have a replacement bed and base ready that I've tested to be flat. The ultrabase gets screwed up with glue stick, and difficult to clean. I wipe with alcohol every few days, but otherwise it works nearly flawlessly. I've been using an athorbot pei surface for a few weeks now and it works really well. The only thing I learned was that Anycubic probably produced these parts themselves. I got myself one of those Anycubic Ultrabase kits at the same time I designed and installed underbed piezo sensors in my Anet A6 (Prusa clone), as I was tired of messing around with glass and hairspray. A metal feeler gauge is of course better for repeated use. If you have further questions, we suggest you create an after-sales ticket and our After-sales engineers will help you solve the problem. Was hoping to avoid IPA, but not sure what else to try. I recently got an Anycubic Ultrabase for my Ultimaker clone kit-printer, to replace the garbage bed it came with. The plastic that's crawling up the nozzle should not be there. g. Printing ABS on that ultrabase at 100C, all good. A problem with the Ultrabase bed is it's made from 2 different materials (aluminium and glass) and has different heat coefficiency so when heated it will for sure warp. No need for tape, make sure your bed is clean and at 60-70°C. Removing the gap between calibration sensor and nozzle (just added some layers of rubber tape on top of the sensor). hakns gzz loychda ylfkgf khcth whtmhn jxwgoeb dkyb pmgf vanjo